Saturday 18 April 2015

Japan Setouchi Shimanami Kaido Cycling : The epitome of cycling for me


Above photos of Shimanami Cycling.  Credit: Internet










Onomichi 尾道 to Imabari 今治 （28 March 2015 ）

 The call to me was loud and clear when I 1st laid eyes on some articles on The Setouchi Shimanami Kaido (Cycling Route) 濑户内 しまなみ海道 in Japan.  I immediately did some quick research to establish how doable the 70km cycling route is for pleasure cyclist like myself.  I was even prepared to do this solo, so when 2 other friends expressed interest in joining me for the one-day dedicated cycling adventure, I was overjoyed with the bonus company.

Each year in October, thousands of cyclists descend on this world renown cycling haven as the weather is great and the autumn colours awesome.  I decided on end March (shoulder season) instead as there will be fewer cyclists and there's a chance of chasing the sakura trail in Shikoku 四国 (the Sakura trail starts in the South and moves Northward, the opposite of the koyo or Autumn trail), which is the 3rd island in Japan, just after Honshu and before Kyushu.

Some cyclists would prefer a more leisurely way of riding the 70km cycling route across 6 islands over 2-3 days, spending time overnight on the bigger and more interesting islands like Ikuchijima/Setoda, Omishima and/or Oshima.  As we have a tight overland driving schedule to achieve after the cycling adventure, I decided to do it in one day with a few breaks in between.  It is very doable if you bring your own bike and start from Imabari to Onomichi instead of the vice versa route which we took, and on rental bikes which we had to return before the shop's closing time (most close by 5pm), anywhere along the 14 bike terminals located on the 6 islands.


The Shimanami Kaido Expressway for motor vehicles is 60km long and the Shimanami Kaido Cycling Road is about 70km as part of the route deviates from the motorcar road.  Point to point we did about 76km in almost 11 hours including breaks and photo stops.  

For those who wish to rent the bikes, the cheaper bike terminal (only 500 JPY per day) is in Onomichi on the ground level of a multi-storey carpark located next to Greenhill Hotel Onomichi. I would strongly recommend staying in this very conveniently located and reasonably priced hotel even if you were to bring your own bike because the ferry terminal is just behind the hotel!  

After collecting the bike from the carpark to my left, we pedalled some 100m to the dock which is just behind Greenhill Hotel Onomichi
To ensure having bikes in good riding condition, it is best to pre-reserve the bike online.  We had 3 good bikes with a basket each, except that they were very heavy, which is not ideal for the long distance cycling plus the unexpected undulating terrain in Oshima Island 大岛.  The rental is very cheap, just 500 JPY per day plus a refundable 1,000 JPY deposit if you return the bike to the same terminal, else it's forfeited. The bike terminal is open from 7am to 6pm and if you do not have advance reservation, be there at 7am to pick the best bike available and then bring to the staff to do the paper work otherwise whatever good bikes available will disappear in no time.  Try out the bikes in the car park especially to test the brakes etc.  Remember to borrow a helmet which is foc.  We were there at 7am sharp even though we had pre-booked our bikes as we wish to have more time cycling.

On board 5-minute ferry ride from Onomichi to Mukaishima. View of Greenhill Hotel Onomichi (white building closest to the sea) from the ferry
As the pathway for cycling across from Onomichi to the 1st island Mukaishima 向岛 is very narrow, the authority strongly urges all cyclists to consider taking a short 5-minute ferry ride across to Mukaishima Island for only 110 JPY per person.

 We met a Japanese family of 3 who were at the same starting point as us in Mukaishima.  We decided to stay close to them. However, we lost them after crossing the 2nd bridge as they were apparently very seasoned and competent cyclists from Hiroshima 広島 (based on my brief chat with the gentleman). The cycling route is very clearly marked on the road with a broad blue line. Cyclists can either cycle on the road itself or on the broad pavement parallel to the road which is a dedicated pathway for both pedestrian and cyclist.  We cycled on the road for most part of the route as vehicular traffic is very low and the Japanese motorists are all very polite and stay a good distance away from the cyclists.

Clearly marked blue line on the road that depicts the Shimanami Kaido Cycling Route
The 1st 5 islands, Mukaishima向岛, Innoshima 因岛, Ikuchijima (Setoda 濑户田), Omishima大三岛 and Hakatajima伯方,  were easy to tackle as the roads were generally flat, except for the steep slopes that lead to each bridge.  We had to cross a total of 6 bridges before reaching Imabari.  There are DIY booths on each bridge that collect tolls on a voluntary basis from the cyclists but we were told by the staff from the bike rental company that it is free to cycle across all the bridges.  




This is how we would have looked cycling on the dedicated cycling path.  Picture taken on our way to Hiroshima on 3rd April from our car on the Expressway lane

Views along the cycling route

Dedicated cycling lane on all 6 bridges
On this bridge, we were cycling directly below the motor car expressway 
Background red bridge was one of the bridges that we cycled across
Except for answering nature calls and photo stops, we did not deviate to visit some of the local attractions as we were mindful of the time.  It was fortunate that I discovered another bike return terminal in Imabari which closes at 8pm, thereby giving us more time on the road (originally had to return the bike by 5pm).  Anyway, should one feel incapable of completing the 70km route, it is possible to return the bike at any of the 14 bike terminals on the 6 islands even though you had indicated on the bike rental form a different terminal to return the bike.

 Though the slopes to the bridges were pretty long and steep, they were manageable as we were still fresh and energetic in the beginning.  We did not even stop for a proper meal except for an awesome citrus gelato and a juicy, giant bun which were both very good.    There were many mikan (orange) and large lemon orchards along the way and we picked 3 mikans which had fallen to the ground. One of my friends kind of regretted carrying the big and heavy mikans which added extra weight to the already heavy load (the bike easily weighed 15kg plus another 2-3kg of belongings and the heavy mikans!). Mikan and lemon are the widely aVailable local produce of Ehime Prefecture.




We did not see many sakura trees along the way as the cherry blossoms were late in blooming in Shikoku四国, which was freak as there were reports that the hanami (cherry viewing) had started in Tokyo, which should be later than Shikoku!  However, on the way back in our rental car on April 3rd, the sight was alot more awesome with cherry trees in full bloom along the mountain slopes.  I now think the best season to cycle here is perhaps late/end November when most parts of Shikoku and the Shimanami Kaido Cycling Route and Expressway are cloaked in autumn hues.

We 1st noticed interesting life-sized dolls, which are scarecrows, while cycling but there's actually a Village of Dolls or Village of Scarecrows that awaits us in the island of Shikoku in the latter part of our trip.

Life-sized dolls which are mostly used as scarecrows
The greatest surprise for us on this cycling trip was the unexpected terrain on the last island, Oshima and also the undulating slopes on the longest 6.4km bridge that links Oshima Island大岛 to Imabari今治. We did not expect to climb more long slopes on this island since it was largely flat on the previous 5 islands , plus the fact that we were getting tired having cycled some 50km and conquered 5 steep slopes by then.  In addition, there were some miscomm online with the tourist info staff who told me that a steep circular path (picture below) was a descent for us coming from Onomichi when in fact it's a very tough incline.  One of my friends had to push her bike for some distance on this challenging stretch of the cycling route.
The last "obstacle" before we got onto the last and longest bridge  to Imabari
Photo taken a short distance from the last bridge which is connected to the circular cycling route
After all the struggle uphill, it was very shiok (exhilarating) to roll downhill

Me approaching the end of the descent from the last bridge! 
It was already dusk ( past 6.30pm ) when we finally rode into the city of Imabari and  we spent another half an hour or so looking for the terminal which closes at 8pm.  A kind soul helped us by cycling with us and leading us via his handheld navigation system to the inconspicuous terminal in town.  We were thoroughly spent after dropping off the bikes but still had to walk some 10-15 minutes to meet our non-cyclist friend who had been waiting for us at Imabari train station.  We were all so famished and ready to eat a whole cow by then!  We wiped clean every dish very quickly and were very satisfied with the ultra fresh sashimi at very cheap price, Shikoku being surrounded by the seas and have the freshiest of seafood!
This huge serving plus several other dishes for only S$20 per person!  We regretted not ordering more!
The 2 tired cyclists facing the camera and our relaxed friend (non-cyclist)
We did do a one and only deviation from the cycling route to visit Kiro-san Observatory Deck亀老山展望台 on Oshima Island 大岛but one look at the map located some 2.8km (the red route on the map below) from the Observatory and the actual terrain, we decided to give up the attempt.  It was really steep and meandering!  I then remembered that we could drive here on our way back to Hiroshima on April 3 and let the car tackle the tough terrain!

Worthwhile trip to Kiro-san Observatory on Oshima Island as it offers a sweeping view of the longest, 6.4km bridge that connects Oshima Island with Imabari. We cycled across this toughest bridge on 28 March, a day after our arrival in Hiroshima.

View of the carpark at the Observatory.  We were the only visitors on 3rd April as it was raining non-stop on the 2nd last day of our trip to Shikoku.  Even the only foodstall there decided to call it a day despite it being morning time
View from Kiro-san Observatory
The open deck Observatory
Will I repeat this feat again?  YES, but in late Autumn and with my own foldie and doing the reverse direction from Imabari to Onomichi.  Reasons being:  it is less demanding as I will be doing more descent in the direction of Imabari to Onomichi although it is still inevitable to climb the slopes that connect to the bridges;  Autumn colours will be so much more colourful and captivating and for less competent cycling friends, they can opt to cycle just the 20km or so route from Imabari to Oshima Island and back to Imabari or return the bike to a bike terminal on Oshima Island and catch the express bus to Onomichi.  But above all, we can catch the last bus from Hiroshima Airport to the nearest train station since we dont have to spend time arranging for our luggage to be forwarded to the next destination as we will commence cycling only towards end of trip!


Footnote:
1)  Download pre-book rental bike form from koho@city.onomichi.hiroshima.jp and email completed 
     form to them at least a week before arrival

2) Use TA-Q-BIN at the Domestic Arrival lobby at Hiroshima Airport to forward your luggage to the 
    next destination so that you can cycle with the minimal belongings possible.  It is located inside
    Sunkus convenience store. It costs less than 1,400 JPY per luggage weighing under 15kg

3) Stay in Greenhill Hotel Onomichi which is very strategically located with the bike rental terminal 
    (inside a carpark) to its left and the ferry terminal/dock behind it, all within about 100m from each 
    other.

4) Do bring a windbreaker and gloves (except in Summer) due to the wind factor while cycling

5) Dont forget your sunglasses and sunblock lotion!




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